The "Click of Death"

RRoller123 · Post by **RRoller123** » Wed Aug 06, 2014 5:59 pm

I have been getting an intermittent (very intermittent until last night when it stranded my daughter and I at a cruise night) fault where you turn the ignition key to the starter engage position and just get a "click" but no starter spin. Happens a couple of times and then the car magically starts normally. I think I have read of others having this issue too.

Well having it actually not magically fix itself last night caused me to fix the actual problem today.

Here is the IGNITION SWITCH wiring diagram for my 80FI:

I have an aftermarket Lada Ignition Switch:

Given that there is a "click" heard, and that this problem happened both with my old original starter and my new gear reduction starter, my conclusion is that there is just enough juice getting to the solenoid to close it or click it, but not to engage it.

The RED wire from the "50" position on the ignition switch goes through C31, then through C6 and connects to the Starter. It triggers the solenoid to pull in the dreaded brown wire power at C50 on the starter. (C31 is actually a 5-position connector, it is a curious and somewhat irritating aspect of these purchased wiring diagrams that they don't show the complete portions of the subject connectors, but that is a discussion for another day).

C31 is a located a few inches behind the ignition switch, C6 is a 1-position bullet connector, located in the engine compartment down behind the alternator (next to the brown wire bullet connector). I verified that I had connection from the ignition switch through to the C6 connector, so some head scratching leads me to conclude that there is a connection, but it is weak and won't pull the solenoid in strongly enough to engage the starter.

C31:

Sure enough, it looks like C31 is a NON-LOCKING connector. It appeared to be very loose when I first inspected it. Don't ask me why they would do this.... Chianti again. Cleaned up the ignition switch connections, pushed it all back together tightly, same for C6, and no more "click of death". For now, anyway..... Maybe a tight ty-wrap around C31 would make some sense?

Just thought I would share this, as it has come up before in the discussions here.

Pete

spider2081 · Post by **spider2081** » Wed Aug 06, 2014 6:22 pm

The single bullet connectors you mentioned are common causes for your problem. So cleaning them and making sure they are tight is important. On my 81 I butt spliced them so no they are a permanent crimp connection.
C31 when new has lots of pin tension. As the connector ages the socket side loosens from current flow and then corrosion sets in and the connector becomes intermittent. Cleaning and retensioning the pins helps here. Also using electrical contact cleaner.
I tested the starter solenoid on the bench. I don't remember the initial pull in current but I was surprised at how high it was. Something like over 25 amps. So any resistance in the circuit can be a real problem. In my case I traced the actual problem to ignition switch itself. Rather than buy a new switch I used a Bosch relay. The wire at C6 from the ignition switch engages the relay coil. The other side of coil is ground. The wire from C6 to starter is the NO contact of the relay and the relay movable contact connects to the alternator's output. This way the ignition switches start position only passes the relay coils current. The relay contacts pass the solenoid current.
I did this 10 years and 40,000 miles ago. So far not one click with no start.

RRoller123 · Post by **RRoller123** » Wed Aug 06, 2014 7:45 pm

Good stuff! Thanks for the added info. My ign switch is good, but I am amazed to hear that the solenoid pull in current was 25 A! Holy Moly! That explains the whole issue right there. I always check the bullet connectors, but it was C31 that was the real culprit this time.

Pete

seabeelt · Post by **seabeelt** » Thu Aug 07, 2014 1:02 pm

Sometimes I get the "Silent Treatment". Meaning I turn the key and nothing happens. Same kind of issue, only for me it means I have hit the rubber boot on the ignition switch and pulled a wire or two off the back of the switch. Quick 30 second fix but was very perplexing the first time.
R/

RRoller123 · Post by **RRoller123** » Thu Aug 07, 2014 1:44 pm

Yep, that is an easy one to have happen, especially if you have long legs. I tend to hit the ign switch constantly with my knees. The schematic shows that the red wire off IGN Switch "50" is the key to pulling in the Solenoid. For others with this problem, that get the "click", track that red one down.

FiatRG · Post by **FiatRG** » Sat Aug 09, 2014 12:22 pm

You're the man! Thread saved me a lot of grief last night. Checked the connections and she started right up.

RRoller123 · Post by **RRoller123** » Sat Aug 09, 2014 1:07 pm

Glad that this helped! Does your car have a non-locking C31? Mine does not lock, but I am not sure if it is original, since the ign switch is a Lada aftermarket in my car. I think I will through a ty-wrap around it!

FiatRG · Post by **FiatRG** » Sat Aug 09, 2014 1:20 pm

RRoller123 wrote:Glad that this helped! Does your car have a non-locking C31? Mine does not lock, but I am not sure if it is original, since the ign switch is a Lada aftermarket in my car. I think I will through a ty-wrap around it!

Mine lock RR. The connection at the ignition switch weren't actually snug!

RRoller123 · Post by **RRoller123** » Sat Aug 09, 2014 8:26 pm

Confirms my suspicions that the C31 in my car is likely not original. Will tywrap shut. Thanks!

Pete

FiatRG · Post by **FiatRG** » Sun Aug 10, 2014 3:54 pm

Car is starting up great but still intermittently giving me that click. Checked all connections again but not 100% consistent. Guessing my next step would be the relay? Would the relay need to be installed between the ignition switch and the the first locking harness or somewhere else?
This forum has been SO much help and saved me lots of $ and time.

RRoller123 · Post by **RRoller123** » Sun Aug 10, 2014 7:22 pm

It may be that you have an intermittent ign switch. So you could check for voltage making it through the system. An easy way is to check for voltage across C7 (the legendary "brown" wire) to C6, the RED that fires the starter solenoid. There is no relay in the system (at least not on my 80FI). Disconnect C6 and C7. The car won't start when you perform this test. So put a multimeter across C7 and C6 as follows: Into the Female side of C7, which is always hot, connected directly to the battery cable at the starter connection, and into the Female side of C6, which runs back to the ign switch. Turn the ign switch to start position and see if you are getting a voltage connection. If no, ign switch is likely bad.

FiatRG · Post by **FiatRG** » Sun Aug 10, 2014 11:09 pm

Awesome RR thank you.

Was cleaning the rear tail light board because it was not working. Got it working and started cleaning ground wires. Figured I'd do the same with the starter and it seems to have solved the intermittent click....for now. Will do what you advised if problem comes back. Thanks again!

RRoller123 · Post by **RRoller123** » Mon Aug 11, 2014 11:37 am

I made a slight mistake in my instructions: You are looking for continuity (~0 ohms resistance) NOT voltage with the way I described connecting the multimeter. I.E. we are looking for connection through the system, not voltage in this test.

Pete

bradartigue · Post by **bradartigue** » Tue Aug 12, 2014 11:18 am

purchased wiring diagrams

Don't purchase wiring diagrams when they are all over the internet for free.

focodave · Post by **focodave** » Tue Aug 12, 2014 11:32 am

http://www.globallistics.com/spidersweb ... ndex0.html

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